The Study at Yale

29449041744_2d9f237302_cThe last time I stopped in New Haven was en route to Maine. We had sweets in the Bronx and dinner in Pound Ridge. We checked into The Study at Yale close to midnight and left early the next morning. It was a mini layover.

I returned last month, and this time I came with no agenda aside from eating, exploring and getting some quiet time. The Saturday morning train left from Grand Central. I arrived early and picked up a cinnamon bun (with cardamom!) from Great Northern Food Hall. Two hours later, a quick cab ride from the train station and I was checked into my room The Study at Yale.

First things first, brunch! A seat at the bar of Heirloom for oysters and a beautifully made Last Word. No better way to settle in….

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One Day in Connecticut

One day in Connecticut…

…starts with a morning drive out of NYC and straight to New Canaan…

…for a visit to The Philip Johnson Glass House.

The Fujiko Nakaya: Veil exhibition runs till the end of November. I imagine this fog would feel extra mystical on a windy afternoon. Thank you to Allen for snapping this photo and the one at top ^-^

From there, it’s another hour drive to New Haven….

…for an afternoon of oolong and pu’erh at The Green Teahouse.

Both teas came with little snacks…

…chocolate mochi with oolong, and butter shortbread with pu’erh.

Next stop, pizza! We made it Sally’s Apizza right as they opened and scored the very last table…

…for a garden pie with extra anchovies. We got a small pie in order to save room for…

…another pizza stop! Frank Pepe’s is just a block away…

…half-calm pie and half-tomato pie with pepperoni. We were pretty full at that point but…

…didn’t you know that ice cream goes in a different stomach?

One scoop Oreo-coffee with whipped cream at Ashley’s. And then it’s time to go back home ^-^

One Weekend in Connecticut

Hello! Hope everyone had a good weekend. Pierre and I went to visit his cousins and their two little boys in Connecticut. Two and half hours north on the Amtrak, we left the computer at home and turned our phones off. First priority: relaxation.

It’s important to get out of the city every now and then. Otherwise the speed and rush of things here will drive you crazy and insane. Perhaps a combination of both. We were gone for just two days but it seriously feels like we came back from a spa retreat. His cousins are amazing cooks and within the first few hours of our arrival we feasted on fingerling potatoes fried in duck fat, a light salad, and stunning côte de boeuf for four. There was a whole chocolate cake combining génoise, gavottes crumbled in nutella (will replicate this at home!), and chocolate mousse. And that was only lunch.

We drove to Fromage in Old Saybrook to pick out cheeses for dinner including a buttery Coupole and Stinking Bishop among many others. And then we stopped at Atlantic Seafood Market for a variety of oysters, monkfish, scallops, salmon, and shrimp while sampling cups of creamy haddock chowder. The scallops and shrimp was for dinner, simply seared – the main course to appetizers of raw oysters and warm buckwheat blinis (made from scratch!), fresh cream and smoked salmon. Cocktails too! I think we were all in heaven. Out of habit, we dine out/takeout/do delivery too often in the city – home cooked meals are rare and much appreciated treats.

The next morning, well rested (no sounds of drunken people yelling on the streets or cabs honking down Broadway) we had warm pancakes and baguettes with soft butter and jam. Hot tea? Yes please! A walk to the beach, rest and then lunch of monkfish and fried pancetta. Cheese plate and more of that divine chocolate cake to follow.

Then it was off to B.F. Clyde’s Cider Mill in Mystic, a short 30-minute drive. Half a dozen fluffy sugar-dusted Apple Cider Doughnuts and hot Mulled Cider to match.

A look at the menu. They also sold jars of apple butter, applesauce, apple-everything!

Fresh batch. Beats the cider doughnuts from Union Square Greenmarket which are often stale by the time farmers bring them down to the Greenmarket. We drove around the Mystic river and back to the house. One last late afternoon hour by the fireplace with that October issue of Food & Wine, and one more pot of genmaicha. A train ride back to NYC, and somehow…it’s Monday once again, surely much too fast.